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<rss xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" version="2.0"><channel><title>Used Engine Blog - Latest Comments</title><link xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" rel="http://api.friendfeed.com/2008/03#sup" href="http://disqus.com/sup/all.sup#forumcomments-20a4c87c" type="application/json"/><link>http://usedengineblog.disqus.com/</link><description></description><atom:link href="http://usedengineblog.disqus.com/comments.rss" rel="self"></atom:link><language>en</language><lastBuildDate>Sat, 21 Apr 2012 20:31:29 -0000</lastBuildDate><item><title>Re: Chevy 5.3L Vortec Engines</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/chevy-5-3l-vortec-engines#comment-505851291</link><description>&lt;p&gt;If it is the top part of the plugs, it is possibly the spark plug tube seals.&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">mnbookman</dc:creator><pubDate>Sat, 21 Apr 2012 20:31:29 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Chevy 5.3L Vortec Engines</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/chevy-5-3l-vortec-engines#comment-505738158</link><description>&lt;p&gt;I replaced the spark plugs in 2000 Silverado 5.3.  All the left bank plugs were oily and the right bank plugs were not.  What would cause this?&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">Silveradonowdsj</dc:creator><pubDate>Sat, 21 Apr 2012 16:52:10 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Chevy 5.3L Vortec Engines</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/chevy-5-3l-vortec-engines#comment-500429306</link><description>&lt;p&gt;The waterpump gaskets are aluminum and have bi metatlic corrosion from it up against the cast block. You may find a little coolant on the swaybar but none on the ground. I would check this before anything else.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">Robert_lemaigre</dc:creator><pubDate>Tue, 17 Apr 2012 23:02:34 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Chevy 5.3L Vortec Engines</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/chevy-5-3l-vortec-engines#comment-498259085</link><description>&lt;p&gt;I have a 2001 5.3L Silverado I'm looking to get the most hp/torque out of . I'm the original owner with only 70k miles on it . I currently have a k/n cold ir intake, grantinella mass air flow sensor, throttle body spacer,and hyper tech power programmer and dummy duals exhaust . Future plans include thermostate, twin radiator fan, plugs and wires distributor cap, intake manifold , cam shaft and headers. What are your thoughts on this on what I should do first and best products to use ?&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">Kreyn970</dc:creator><pubDate>Sun, 15 Apr 2012 12:13:25 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Chevy 5.3L Vortec Engines</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/chevy-5-3l-vortec-engines#comment-498251655</link><description>&lt;p&gt;There aren't many great used motors in that yet range for $600. In my experience most of those are high miles - and the supplier won't provide a vehicle history report to you, before you purchase, you are almost assuredly being lied to on mileage.&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">mnbookman</dc:creator><pubDate>Sun, 15 Apr 2012 11:59:15 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Chevy 5.3L Vortec Engines</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/chevy-5-3l-vortec-engines#comment-498224940</link><description>&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 suburban 5.3 vortec with 193k miles it's running great but has a loud knock on the drivers side (valve cover area) thinking it's a sticking lifter.. It's running on 10-30w oil not sure if I should be using a thicker oil or not.. I will be removing both valve covers to look for any type of wear, maybe a motor flush also.. I'm not very worried about it I priced out a great used motor for $600 so if worse comes to worse I will replace complete engine.. If anyone has had or knows of this issue please respond!! Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">Akumakickz</dc:creator><pubDate>Sun, 15 Apr 2012 11:05:09 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Chevy 5.3L Vortec Engines</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/chevy-5-3l-vortec-engines#comment-482230023</link><description>&lt;p&gt;Please help!&lt;br&gt;I have a cream puff 2003 Suburban with 110k miles.&lt;br&gt;On a return trip from Florida to Pa , 1000 mile drive, I slowly began to loose oil pressure.&lt;br&gt;My great local trustworthy mechanic suggested, oil, Lucas and nurse it home,&lt;br&gt;I made it home... now after a fresh oil change and Lucas, the truck sat for 2 weeks. Statrted it yesterday...no oil pressure...computer  signaled on dash....knocking like a bitch!!!! now what do I do with my cream puff???&lt;br&gt;Please help!&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">Kenny Rogo</dc:creator><pubDate>Sat, 31 Mar 2012 17:36:32 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Chevy 5.3L Vortec Engines</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/chevy-5-3l-vortec-engines#comment-478887304</link><description>&lt;p&gt;My 2000 LT silverado 5.3L had done me nothing but good for 220,000+ miles and the only real maintenece I have done to it is switched to 5w10 about 20k miles ago. Still runnin strong and&lt;br&gt;Has acually gained 5 hp simce the last time I dynoed it 100k miles ago. This motor is by far the best motor I have ever driven and been around &lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">Loganweems454</dc:creator><pubDate>Wed, 28 Mar 2012 19:24:46 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Chevy 5.3L Vortec Engines</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/chevy-5-3l-vortec-engines#comment-477238762</link><description>&lt;p&gt;I would try an oil change :)  and some lucas oil stablizer its common for there to be some noise if oil is old bad or to light it can cause the a knocking noise.  other things to lol cant hear it and not there.. Soo  worth a 10$ shot for next oil change?  That stuff has worked wonders for everything from lawn equipment to my own vehicle.  not a magic bottle just some darn good oil additive.  Odds are it will put more of a cushion in there area knocking and it stays very well.. Helps to eliminate dry starts, very much.. might be worth your time to look into&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">Ad_ezy</dc:creator><pubDate>Tue, 27 Mar 2012 02:51:53 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Chevy 5.3L Vortec Engines</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/chevy-5-3l-vortec-engines#comment-477236080</link><description>&lt;p&gt;.... WOW sounds like they blew your head gasket my friend....  I would have suspected a loose hose or something around those lines maybe a bad bearing seal in water pump.  If they *pressure* tested it to high...  pop... goes something usually a gasket or line. the tester goes where the cap is.. the cap houses a blow off valve for excess pressure..  when the tester is placed there it obviously will not blow out the excess pressure. until the unit is removed or if they have one with a bleeder valve... blah blah... sorry to much info .  BUT it is not in the same condition it came in its ... worse alot worse... And unless you make it a habit to pay for others possible mistakes.. I would have a word or 3 with them...  and beware of B.S. if you have someone that KNOWs autos bring them to help you sort through there B.S.  It wouldn't be the first time I've seen that happen... Sorry for the bad luck hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">Ad_ezy</dc:creator><pubDate>Tue, 27 Mar 2012 02:42:54 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Chevy 5.3L Vortec Engines</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/chevy-5-3l-vortec-engines#comment-477233673</link><description>&lt;p&gt;normal good engines will burn oil around 1 quart, even brand new engines will as they break in and after.  If your engine is smoking grey its either nothing *probably* newer engines need to heat up some things faster for emissions control.  If your smoke is Blue grey then worry if it does it for more then start up.  Mileage I would suspect worn *typical/normal* valve seals.  NO need to replace them.  Just a small amount of oil leaks past as vehicle sits and cools the seals will shrink slightly and allow a small amount of oil past.  The 5.3 is a decent engine a few build flaws but nothing big..  I am not a fan of plastic intake's on any vehicle nor miss matching aluminum and steal blocks and intakes.  Just for the simple fact that expansion an contractions are different between the two and add that much more stress on the gaskets. &lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">Ad_ezy</dc:creator><pubDate>Tue, 27 Mar 2012 02:34:49 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Chevy 5.3L Vortec Engines</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/chevy-5-3l-vortec-engines#comment-470675313</link><description>&lt;p&gt;New parts stress old parts.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;That has some holes in it, but speaks truth.&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">mnbookman</dc:creator><pubDate>Tue, 20 Mar 2012 18:53:03 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Chevy 5.3L Vortec Engines</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/chevy-5-3l-vortec-engines#comment-470582160</link><description>&lt;p&gt; Hi, I own a 2006 Silverado 1500 with a 5.3L V8. It recently broke down on me and was diagnosed at the dealership with a broken push rod, which they said is rare for a 5.3. It is covered by my GMPP extended warranty. However GMPP is only willing to cover the cost for one piston and one new head on the left bank. My concern is this...the wear on my new head being 0 kms and the wear on my used head being just under 100,000 kms. Could this difference cause problems down the road?&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">Glen-thompson</dc:creator><pubDate>Tue, 20 Mar 2012 16:57:07 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: The Timing Belt on My Kia Engine Broke. What do I do?</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/the-timing-belt-on-my-kia-engine-broke-what-do-i-do#comment-468117549</link><description>&lt;p&gt;I cannot state my agreement for legal reasons. ;)&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;To be fair, quality has risen sharply in the last five years.&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">mnbookman</dc:creator><pubDate>Sat, 17 Mar 2012 22:24:45 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: The Timing Belt on My Kia Engine Broke. What do I do?</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/the-timing-belt-on-my-kia-engine-broke-what-do-i-do#comment-467816490</link><description>&lt;p&gt;I'd stay away from KIA entirely. I changed the belt in my 2004 at 96000km and it only lasted 30000 before it broke last week. KIA vehicles are a joke and should be barred from being sold anywhere in North America&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">Chris</dc:creator><pubDate>Sat, 17 Mar 2012 12:09:54 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Nissan Altima Used Engines</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/nissan-altima-used-engines#comment-466640255</link><description>&lt;p&gt;It depends on why it is smoking. Some suppliers dump oil down the intake manifold and "swamp" engines before storage. However, with the demand for Altima engines, I doubt there would be any need to swamp one. &lt;br&gt;It is possible your mechanic bought the cheapest 2.5 he could find, and that you're now stuck with the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">mnbookman</dc:creator><pubDate>Fri, 16 Mar 2012 00:43:46 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Nissan Altima Used Engines</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/nissan-altima-used-engines#comment-466635416</link><description>&lt;p&gt;i have changed my 2002 altima 2.5 engine, but smoking a lot, mechanic said drive for few hours on highway will go away, is that true prevention?&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">gias</dc:creator><pubDate>Fri, 16 Mar 2012 00:34:31 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Chevy 5.3L Vortec Engines</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/chevy-5-3l-vortec-engines#comment-458112516</link><description>&lt;p&gt;I have a '99 5.3L and had the front main, rear main seals and oil pan gasket replaced a little over a year ago. This cost me $1000 do to the fact that it was a four wheel drive and taking the engine out was more difficult. My engine has 220000+ miles.&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">Richard Garrett</dc:creator><pubDate>Tue, 06 Mar 2012 15:44:08 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Used Chevy Engines</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/used-chevy-engines#comment-456575590</link><description>&lt;p&gt;Oldsmobile was owned by General Motors, as is Chevy. As long as they are the same "interchange" you should be fine. If you give us info in both the donor and recipient vehicle (year, make, and model, I would be happy to verify comparability for you.&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">mnbookman</dc:creator><pubDate>Mon, 05 Mar 2012 00:18:03 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Used Chevy Engines</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/used-chevy-engines#comment-455535874</link><description>&lt;p&gt;i need to know what will happen if my mechanic put a chevy engine in my olds alero&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">Lcinsincity</dc:creator><pubDate>Sat, 03 Mar 2012 16:11:53 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Chevy 5.3L Vortec Engines</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/chevy-5-3l-vortec-engines#comment-454763346</link><description>&lt;p&gt; Hey, I have 298k on mine and the rear main seal leaks too. What was your repair quote?&lt;br&gt;J.D.&lt;br&gt;zrabbit@aol.com&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">J.D.</dc:creator><pubDate>Fri, 02 Mar 2012 14:46:36 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: The History of the Original Saturn 1.9L Engine</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/the-history-of-the-original-saturn-1-9l-engine#comment-454118996</link><description>&lt;p&gt;I am looking a buying a 94 5 speed manual, with 220000 miles, for 1,400!!&lt;br&gt;Body is in very good condition, inside is good, except some issue with  drivers window!&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;does this sound like a good or okay deal!&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">Daniel Engstrom</dc:creator><pubDate>Thu, 01 Mar 2012 22:34:50 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Chevy 5.3L Vortec Engines</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/chevy-5-3l-vortec-engines#comment-453991256</link><description>&lt;p&gt;throttle body sensor&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">Xkvator</dc:creator><pubDate>Thu, 01 Mar 2012 20:20:58 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: Ford Powerstroke Diesel Engines at Great Prices</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/ford-powerstroke-diesel-engines-at-great-prices#comment-453559624</link><description>&lt;p&gt;That's a question with no good answer. I have always felt that later 7.3's should get 400,000 miles, but I sell to people all the time who have gotten more and who have gotten much less. What you're towing and how *hard* you push the vehicle has a lot to do with it.&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">mnbookman</dc:creator><pubDate>Thu, 01 Mar 2012 13:00:38 -0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Re: How do I find my Audi or Volkswagen Engine Code?</title><link>http://www.lowmileageengines.com/engine_blog/how-do-i-find-my-audi-or-volkswagen-engine-code#comment-453557897</link><description>&lt;p&gt;Hi, you should literally just call any Audi or Volkswagen dealer with your VIN. We ship some to Europe, but I couldn't begin to recommend a specific dealer to you.&lt;/p&gt;</description><dc:creator xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/">mnbookman</dc:creator><pubDate>Thu, 01 Mar 2012 12:58:23 -0000</pubDate></item></channel></rss>
